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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.